WATER PUMP:
56-82 CORVETTE WATER PUMP REBUILD
|
Your 30 year old, all numbers and date code matching
Corvette’s water pump starts to leak. What are you going to do? You have
worked very hard making sure every original part is still on the car so
buying a new replacement water pump is not an acceptable solution. You could
send the water pump out to be rebuilt, but are you sure you will get your
pump back? What happens if it is lost in shipment? All of the questions are
making you ill. The answer is very simple..... rebuild
the pump yourself. I know what you are thinking. |
|
|
|
01: Here are all of the pieces that are included in the 56 to
82 Water Pump Rebuild Kit from Zip. The only other items you will need is
access to a hydraulic press, sand or bead blaster, hand tools, engine paint,
masking tape and shop manual for your year Corvette. |
|
|
02: Remove the water pump as per your shop manual’s
instructions. The fan, fan pulley and heater hose fitting should be removed
from the pump. Next use either a wrench or flat blade screwdriver (depending
on your year water pump) to remove the six bolts or screws that secure the
rear plate. |
|
|
03: Support the fan hub in the press. Now using a 1/2” press
bar or 1/2” grade 8 bolt press the water pump shaft out of the hub. Remember
to hold onto the water pump while you press it out. They do not bounce well
when they hit the floor. |
|
|
04: Support the water pump housing at the top and bottom of
the housing itself. Make sure that you leave enough room for the shaft and
impeller to fall out of the bottom of the housing. Use a 7/8 deep well socket
to press the bearing and race assembly. You do not want to press on the
shaft. You want to press on the bearing and race. Slowly press the shaft and
impeller out of the housing. |
|
|
05: You can now take a scraper and remove all of the old gasket material.
Remember to also clean the mounting surfaces on the engine block. Now would
also be a good time to touch up the front of the block, if it is needed. |
|
|
06: The water pump housing can now be cleaned. Use a paint stripper and
remove all of the old paint. Next place the housing in a beadblast
cabinet (you can also use a sandblaster) and clean the entire outer surface.
After this is done, thoroughly clean all of the blasting sand or beads out of
the inside of the housing. Make sure you inspect the entire housing for any
cracks before you begin assembly. |
|
|
07: Again support the pump housing at the top and bottom and press the
new bearing/shaft assembly into the housing. The longer grooved end of the
shaft goes into the housing. |
|
|
08: Take a 7/8” deep well socket and set it against the bearing race.
Carefully press the shaft/bearing assembly into the housing. The bearing/race
assembly should be flush with the housing when properly installed. |
|
|
|
12: Place the small metal/rubber seal over the end of the shaft. The
rubber part of the seal will face toward the pump’s impellers. |
|
|
13: Take the new impeller and lay it on a totally flat surface (a piece of
glass works well). Make sure that all of the blades touch the glass and are
even. This is very important when the impeller is installed (our Kit had 2
blades that needed adjusted). If the blades do not touch, bend them until
they do. Carefully position the new impeller over the shaft. Use a 5/8” deep
well socket to apply pressure to the center of the impeller. Now begin to
slowly press the impeller into place. You do not want the blades to come in
contact with the housing. There should be anywhere from .010 to .0135
clearance. When the clearance is achieved, spin the shaft and make sure none
of the blades come in contact with the housing. |
|
|
14: Apply gasket sealer to both sides of the water pump housing gasket and
position it into place on the housing. Now select the correct rear housing
plate. Pre 60s used the flat plate. 60s up used the stepped plate. Remember
the gasket and plate can be positioned in two correct ways. The rounded sides
are opposite each other and go on the top and bottom. |
|
|
15: There were also two different types of attaching screws. Pre-60 used
the slotted head screw. 60s and up used the cap screw. Choose the correct one
for your application. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
